The current store, owned by Mogilner, is an exact historic re-construction of its 19th Century predecessor; but for some of the modern tourist-friendly items on display, it could pass for a set on “Deadwood.” (The staff even dresses in period clothing.) The floor tiles, adobe bricks, and some of the beams and doors are recovered from the original site, and all the building’s fixtures are authentic to the time period. The tobacciana on display - cigarette packs, antique pipes, stone litho tobacco labels, and Mogilner’s specialty, Zippo lighters - are all originals.

Racine and Laramie serves a dual purpose, as both living museum and active tobacco shop. Space for modern-day product is limited, though the R&L staff are committed to carrying boutique manufacturers like Crown David and Los Blancos, both of whose product is prominently displayed. There are two R&L house brands, one made by Altadis U.S.A. and one by Toraño Cigars. A planned cigar room in the large back chamber is under construction to accommodate an expanded selection. The shop also caters to pipe smokers, with the largest collection of old and new pipes in San Diego - all for sale - and a number of popular tobacco blends. A local expert named (believe it or not) Piper has been known to create custom blends from customers’ own recipes.

As one would expect from someone with 25 years’ experience in the business, Hurmiz’s wine selection is also impressive - and those who prefer a premium beer with their cigar are also well served, by a menu that includes several hard-to-find Belgian imports such as Duvel and Fin du Monde.

Hurmiz is expanding the patio area - adding both new chairs and more space - to accommodate more after-dinner smokers. With Churchill’s, he feels he is filling an underserved niche in the area. “In Old Town, there’s a lot of activity on the street after dinner, because parking is at a premium,” he explains. “There are people walking by who want to relax after dinner with a drink and a smoke. And this is the only place in Old Town where they can do that.”

The cigar-and-wine theme is once again evident as I visit the informal lounge area in the rear of the store. 40 bottles (including a special “Cigar Zin” California Zinfandel) are open for service by the glass, and another 40 are offered in 375-ML “splits” which fill approximately a pair of glasses. For the morning cigar crowd, there is also coffee and espresso offered at the bar. The walk-in humidor has 300 selections, and the plan is to expand the menu by at least 50 more.

Kalasho keeps things hopping at the shop with cigar events sponsored by popular manufacturers, including Rocky Patel and Nick Perdomo, that are well-attended by the loyal crowd of regulars. And while Excalibur carries accessories like humidors and lighters, they are a small part of the business; the vast majority of the clientele stops in to buy their favorite cigars, try a new brand, or smoke a stick while sipping some vino and partaking of the “Cheers”-like atmosphere. “It’s mostly cigars and wine here,” Kalasho says. “We like to keep things very simple.”

Kalasho was approved for his wine license the day before I visited the store, and has big plans for expanding the selection. “There are really not that many places in California where you can sit down [inside] and enjoy a cigar with a glass of wine or port,” he says. “We’re concentrating on having a large variety of cigar-friendly wines and ports - mostly from California, but also based on what customers tell me they want.”

Excalibur draws people from all over the area and beyond - largely owing to its impressive selection of cigar brands, and the area’s centralized location (“the heart of San Diego,” in Kalasho’s words). Excalibur in Clairemont Mesa is also at the heart of a male entertainment oasis. On occasion, you’ll find customers and staffers from Cheetah’s, the nearby adult establishment, or the Bullpen, the local sports bar, wandering in for a smoke. (In a bit of odd symmetry, both Excaliburs are next door to strip clubs.)

In the current climate, Kalasho feels that building a sense of community among cigar smokers should be a top priority. Like his brother’s place in Miramar, his shop strives to schedule cigar-tasting events on a regular basis, and is even interested in bringing in California wine makers from nearby Temecula and Sonoma Valley for dual cigars-and-wine tastings. Despite the obstacles in his home state, Kalasho believes that cigar retailing still promises a bright future: “If you have the right products and the right concept, you shouldn’t have a problem.” He says. “I think we have the nicest store in the county. Hopefully we’ll help more people to enjoy their hobby.”

Owner Charles Hennegan took over in 1986, after years of patronizing the shop at lunchtime with his colleagues in the savings-and-loan business. After that industry went downhill, Hennegan found a new career opportunity in his regular cigar haunt. “The previous owner was looking for a change in his life; I needed a new career,” he recalls. “Within 48 hours of that conversation, I found myself on the other side of the counter. 20 years later, it’s still a great run.” Hennegan learned the business from the regular customers and the industry types who frequented the store. Nowadays, he’s a knowledgeable veteran but still keeps his ear attuned to the needs of his patrons. “What the customers want, I try to get,” he says. “I’ve never been comfortable telling anyone what a good cigar is. I let them tell me.”

The result is a store with a diverse selection of cigars ranging from bargain bundles to high-end boxes. Liberty has 2,000 square feet of space devoted to selling cigars and accessories, plus another 500 in the outside patio. It is the city’s only Davidoff Appointed Merchant. There is a great selection of premium pipes and pipe tobacco, and lighters from Blazer, Vector, and Prometheus.

Hennegan is proud of Liberty’s distinctive neighborhood bar vibe. Unlike most of the shops that offer seating and TV, Liberty’s lounge area is in the front, visible from outside. “I positioned it up there because I like to showcase that aspect of the business,” Hennegan says. “It’s a good place to sit with your buddy, watch some TV, meet with business associates - we’ve even got Wi-Fi for laptops. That’s what cigar and pipe smoking is really about - a social tool.” Speaking of San Diego’s cigar community and its struggles against the state’s anti-tobacco Big Brother policies, Hennegan concludes, “There are still a lot of cigar smokers out there, and we’re going to keep enjoying cigars. We just have to put up with some nonsense in the meantime.”

The atmosphere is classic steakhouse ambiance: rich, Honduran mahogany walls dressed up with historical paintings and memorabilia; bronze Fredric Remington sculptures; soft background music; impeccable service, starting with the valet parking; a fantastic wine list; and of course, the food. Every cut of beef in Donovan’s is certified Prime. The huge bar holds an incredible selection of single malt Scotches, small-batch bourbons, vintage cognacs, and other premium spirits.

The restaurant has six private dining rooms, including the Del Mar Room, with art celebrating great moments in San Diego thoroughbred racing, and the Sports Room, with memorabilia from the city’s most honored athletes and teams. Not surprisingly, Donovan’s is a favorite for a roster of local sports figures, including Chargers coach Marty Schottenheimer and Padres General Manager Kevin Towers and pitcher David Wells. It has hosted visiting VIPs from Bill Gates to Governor Arnold Schwarzenegger.