 SMOKE Cities: Washington DC's Cigar Scene (continued) Cigar Shopping (cont.) 
Signature Cigars1331 Rockville Pike, Rockville, MD, 20852, 301-984-2008; Bethesda: 4919 Cordell Avenue, Bethesda, MD, 20814, 301-652-5660; Washington, D.C.: 1817 M Street NW, 202-822-1380. In 1996 Granville Smith opened the original Signature Cigar shop in Rockville, a suburban enclave at the northern end of D.C.’s Metro train line. Since then, two additional locations have opened, one in neighboring Bethesda and the other in Washington, and Smith’s daughter Courtney has taken an active managerial role in the business. She acknowledges that the traditional male-oriented nature of the cigar retailing business gave her a tough time at first. “Dad was always a cigar lover, and I only became curious about them when we started out,” she recalls, “and there weren’t many women in the business then.” Nevertheless, Courtney Smith persevered and has become as much a fixture as her local-legend father on the D.C. area cigar scene - and as knowledgeable about cigars and the culture of cigar smoking as any male you’ll meet. The Rockville store, still the largest of the three, offers patrons recreational options in addition to the great cigar selection - including a pool table, video poker, and Golden Tee, the interactive golf video game that has developed a rabid following. The smaller Washington, D.C. shop, due to its location, gets the most tourists but is not largely tourist-driven. The walk-in humidor features all of the major brands as well as boutique favorites like Mayorga, Natural by Drew Estates, and the new Rocky Patel lines. Signature is also the area’s exclusive dealer of Pinar’s coveted Pre-Embargo Cuban brand. Situated next to a gentlemen’s club, the D.C. store has an intimate neighborhood vibe, with regulars customarily lounging on the big leather couch with cigars and drinks watching TV or having animated discussions. “Usually it’s political conversation, as you might expect,” Courtney says knowingly. “Just solving the world’s problems.”
Bethesda Tobacco4914 St. Elmo Avenue, Bethesda MD 20814, 301-656-7123 The community vibe of this suburban cigar outpost is obvious right away, as regulars lounge and puff under an awning outside the store. Owner Michael Copperman, who bears a slight resemblance to Jon Favreau, took over the former J.B. Sims shop from his former employer, founder Bart Sims, late last year, and has maintained the dynamic, intimate, fraternity-esque feel that Sims established. Extremely knowledgeable and enthusiastic about tobacco - from the science of growing and blending to the politics of smoking culture - Copperman is clearly in his dream job. The store is a showcase of leading boutique brands, almost exclusively so. You’ll find very few cigar lines by General Cigar, Altadis, or other large manufacturers here, and that is by design. “My strategy has always been to deal with the smaller, boutique manufacturers,” Copperman states as we peruse shelves well-stocked with La Flor Dominicana, Camacho, C.A.O., Don Lino Africa, and others. “Cigars are such an intimate product, and for me, there’s always a bit of a disconnect with the big companies.” There is a large area of the walk-in humidor devoted to Davidoff products, however, and a Padrón selection that would make many a connoisseur’s mouth water (Bart Sims was a classmate of Jorge Padrón at Florida State University, and one of his earliest retail supporters). Copperman maintains a separate aging room where he keeps some of his personal favorites, as well as a handful of pre-embargo Havanas. A discussion of cigar issues with Copperman in his upstairs office invariably turns to the current and upcoming legislative battles. Maryland has resisted a statewide smoking ban, but many counties have established one, including Montgomery, where the store is located. Despite the competitive parity a ban in nearby D.C. would give Bethesda, he has joined his contemporaries in the District of Columbia in opposing a sweeping ban there. “David [Berkebile] asked me to testify [against smoke-free D.C.] and I was glad to,” he says, “because it’s better for the industry. As tobacconists, we’re not doing our jobs if we’re just selling cigars. We have the opportunity to either rise and greet this storm or be apathetic and wither away. The need for revolutionary voices is greater now than ever.”
Also Recommended: J-R Cigars (1730 L Street NW, 202-296-3872) - Like the company’s well-known mail-order catalog, a good selection at discount prices, with an emphasis on boxes and bundles. If Thomas Riley Marshall were alive today, he’d probably shop here.
Dining 
Charlie Palmer Steak101 Constitution Ave. NW, Washington, D.C. 20001, 202-547-8100 Boasting overstuffed chairs, three fireplaces, and spectacular views of Capitol Hill, this progressive American steakhouse, established in April 2003, has swiftly become a favorite of Washington’s players from both ends of the spectrum (both John McCain and Hilary Clinton have dined here). Executive Chef Byron Voltaggio’s menu offers twists on traditional fare, centered on aged artisan beef along with a wide variety of fish, seafood, and fowl. Dishes range from a European-cut Grilled beef Filet Mignon to Roasted Virginia “Kobe Style” Wagyu Sirloin to Maine Lobster poached in Butter Fondue, all in hearty, generous portions. Sides include four styles of potatoes and four types of mushrooms. Wine director Jason Ferris maintains a 10,000-bottle collection of exclusively American wines from all 50 states. The separate bar area is cigar-friendly, and occasionally hosts cigar events that have brought industry stars such as Jorge Padrón, C.A.O.’s Tim Ozgener, and Norman Sharp of the Cigar Association of America together with celebrity chefs, winemakers, and politicians.
Ceiba 701 14th Street NW, Washington, D.C. 20005, 202-393-3983 Named after the umbrella-shaped tree found in the New World tropics, Ceiba offers a menu of contemporary Latin Cuisine combining culinary influences of Brazil, Peru, Cuba, and the Mexican Yucatan, all under the expert hand of chef Christopher Clime. The emphasis is on seafood here, like Whole Crispy Snapper Vera Cruz, Sugar Cane Skewered Jumbo Shrimp, and Sea Scallops à la Plancha, but the Jerk Barbecued Chicken Breast and Grilled “Cowboy Cut” Ribeye Churrasco are also excellent choices. Starters include a pleasantly spicy West Indies Conch Chowder and tangy and savory Yellowfin Tuna Ceviche. The wine list is extensive, including several great Malbecs from Argentina and Cabernets from Chile. Cigar smoking is allowed at the bar after 10:00 PM on weeknights.
M&S Grill 600 13th Street NW, Washington, D.C., 20005, 202-347-1500 The initials are for restaurateurs Bill McCormick and Doug Schmick, who have operated full-service eateries across America for 30 years. A casual companion to the more upscale McCormick and Schmick seafood restaurant on K Street, M&S has a comfortable “speakeasy” vibe, with lots of wood, frosted glass, and a high ceiling. The fare is traditional grill, with prime rib, pot roast, and roasted chicken among the popular selections. Bar patrons will notice a veritable treasure trove of single malt Scotches, including connoisseur specialties like Edradour, Glenfarclas, Highland Park, and a 25-year-old Macallan.
Also Recommended: Bistrot du Coin (1738 Connecticut Ave. NW, 202-234-6969) - a proudly French bistro with the requisite Parisian-style nicotine-tinted walls. Owner Michel Verdon is a dedicated cigar smoker, the neighborhood crowd is boisterous, and the menu is varied and consistently good. Capital Grille (601 Pennsylvania Avenue NW, 202-737-6200) - a high-end steakhouse that caters to movers and shakers, with a stock ticker over the cigar-friendly bar; The Prime Rib (2020 K Street NW, 202-466-8811) - Steaks, chops, and fresh local seafood, like the renowned Maine Lobster, in an ultra-civilized setting reminiscent of a 1940s Manhattan Supper Club.
Nightlife Shelly’s Backroom 1331 F Street NW, Washington, D.C., 20004, 202-737-3003 Directly across from the National Press Building, Shelly’s only opened in 1997 but has become an enduring fixture on the cigar-smoking nightlife scene in D.C. The atmosphere is luxurious but totally unpretentious, with couches, overstuffed easy chairs, a state-of-the-art air purification system, and three high-definition television sets, including one big-screen plasma set. Catching a Washington Nationals game with the baseball-crazed locals, as I have occasion to do on my visit, is an experience not to be missed. Owner Robert Materazzi and general manager Anthony Rubbo have stocked the bar with an array of Scotches, bourbons, tequilas, and rums, as well as an impressive cigar menu, including gems like Fuente Don Carlos and Hemingway, Aurora Preferido, La Gloria Cubana Serie R, Padrón, Partagas Spanish Rosado, and La Flor Dominicana Chisel. If you’re willing to dig a bit deeper into the wallet, “Shelly’s Cabinet” houses special-order smokes like Fuente Fuente Opus X, Macanudo 1997 Vintage, Ashton VSG, and Davidoff Millenium. For novices and first-time smokers, each cigar on the menu has a helpful star rating to indicate strength level.
Butler’s Jazz and Cigar Bar(at the Grand Hyatt Washington) Butler’s at the Grand Hyatt Washington was one of the hot spots at D.C.’s Millennium Celebration for New Year’s 2000, and it’s still a popular destination for locals and visitors alike who are primed for an evening of fine cigars, stiff drinks, and soft, soothing jazz. The multi-level bar/lounge has a gorgeous mahogany bar, plush couches, a state-of-the-art ventilation system, and humidified cigar lockers for rent. Butler’s offers its own Private Reserve cigars among its menu of 25 selections, and a private-label microbrew in addition to its extensive list of martinis and Scotch whiskies. The bar’s Deco look and moody lighting accentuate the musical experience.
Old Ebbitt Grill 675 15th Street NW, Washington, D.C. 20005, 202-347-4800 The oldest saloon in D.C. (established in 1856), and a favorite power-lunch spot for today’s political potentates, the Old Ebbitt impresses with its Beaux-Arts Victorian interior, mahogany-and-velvet booths, and bars set in marble, brass, and beveled glass. Just steps from the White House, it once functioned as a boarding house for a slew of American presidents, including Andrew Johnson, Grover Cleveland, William McKinley, and Theodore Roosevelt - who allegedly bagged the trophy animal heads that hang on the walls of the bars and luxurious dining rooms. Virtually dripping with history, the Ebbitt nevertheless draws a vibrant young crowd of singles at night, with its great selection of draft beers on tap, top-shelf spirits, award-winning wine list, and (for now) cigar-friendly bar areas.
Also Recommended: Ozio Martini and Cigar Lounge (11813 M St. NW, 202-822-6000) - a swanky, upscale nightlife icon, with the look of an old mansion and a 1930s vibe, that draws celebrities and beautiful people. Expensive but worth it; Degrees (at the Ritz-Carlton Georgetown); 9:30 Club (815 V Street NW, 202-393-0930) - a nationally famous live-music venue hosting today’s hottest bands as well as up-and-coming talent. Smoking is permitted and cigars are sold at the downstairs bar; Round Robin Bar (at the Willard). SMOKE - Fall, 2005   |