SMOKE 09/96 - Single Malt Scotch - A Class Act Whiskey (pg.2)

of peat smoke used to dry it, the strains of yeast, the character of the local water, the type of casks (primarily once-used bourbon, sometimes sherry barrels), the length of aging, the location of the warehouse. and so on. But to the distillers, even these factors may not explain everything, which is why some insist that the very dents and bumps in a copper still be reproduced if it has to be replaced.

Most of a distiller's annual production of malt whiskey is destined for blending. The average brand of blended whiskey is about one-third malt whiskey and two-thirds grain whiskey -- a rather neutral product distilled from corn by a handful of giant industrial distillers. Two or three of these relatively flavorless whiskies are combined with as many as two dozen fuller-flavor malt whiskies to produce a proprietary blended brand. The precise recipes used - which malts in which proportions, and so on -- differ from brand to brand and, understandably, kept secret.

Single malt fanciers often make the mistake of thinking that blends are always inherently inferior. That's not always the case. The top blends, in fact, come close in style to good malts, and the go-for-broke blended whiskies, such as Johnny Walker Blue Label or J & B Ultima, can easily knock a so-so malt right off the bar. But the majority of blends are far milder and less complex than single malts - and they're supposed to be. When you want uncomplicated drinking rather than drama in the glass, blends come into their own; they're typically lighter, softer, more delicate, less demanding. ,P>

SINGLE MALT GEOGRAPHY

The appeal of single malts is not just that they are richer, heavier, more intense and complex. Like fine wines, their taste reflects their origin. Single malts can be divided into the basic geographic groupings -- HIghland, Lowland, and Islay. The malts produced in each region generally share a similar taste profile.

HIghland malts are by far the most numerous grouping. Character, elegance, smokiness, warmth come wrapped in a round, sweet, smooth-textured style in most examples. Standard-bearers include the 12-year-old The Glenlivet, soft, wonderfully harmonious, and scented; the 18-year-old is superb. Then there's the class 12-year-old The Macallan, splendidly rich, layered and lingering from aging in sherry casks. The 25-year-old Macallan is one of the few of its age worth the price of admission (about $125). Other worthy examples include the enticingly fragrant, almost herbal 12-year-old Cragganmore,' the brandy-like, honied, deep-flavored 12-year-old Balvenie; the highly aromatic, sweetly-smooth 15-year-old Dalwhinnie; the best-selling, appetizing brisk Glenfiddich "Special Reserve"; the delicate, dry, subtle 12-year-old Glengoyne; the smoky-rich 14-year-old Oban and the soft and spicy 10-year-old Aberlour. Talisker is the only malt whiskey produced on the island of Skye, and, while classified as a Highland malt, the 10-year-old is a powerful, smoky, almost peppery whiskey that has much in common with assertive Islay malts. Lowland malts, of which there are only a handful, are typically light and delicate in taste -- malt in the mild mode. The 10-year-old Glenkinchie is a fine introduction to the style; light, fragrant, balanced, with a trace of sweetness. The 10-year-old Auchentoshan is a similar, almost flowery Lowland malt.

Islay (pronounced eye'-lah) malts are for those who like the flavor of their single malts underlined. The most arresting specimens from this inner Hebrides island are redolent with smoky peatiness and have a seaweed-like tang. The 10-year-old Laphroig, produced right on the seacoast, is exemplar, dark, brim, with an almost oily texture; the 15-year-old version is only slightly tamer but much more lingering. The 16-year-old Lagavulin is equally imposing; a touch drier, but just as complex. Not all Islay malts are so assertive; the lovely 17-yea-old Bowmore is smoothly deep and only hints, rather than shouts, of smoky peat.

BUYING SINGLE MALT SCOTCH

The growing popularity of single malt has led to a proliferation of bottlings on the market -- at last count nearly a hundred brands -- that range in price from $25 to $150 or more. Here are a few points to bear in mind before going out to stock the home bar.

Every single malt isn't a bottled marvel. While a number of malts are acknowledged classics, not all are equally splendid in the glass. Increasing interest in single malts means that many obscure and indifferent labels are now being hyped. "Old Glengangle" (or whatever) may be useful to a blend and may be representative of a particular regional style or even extraordinarily scarce, but that doesn't necessarily mean that it's anything special on its own -- or worth the price.

Older isn't always better. The ideal age for a single malt differs from whiskey to whiskey. Most malts, even mild ones, require a minimum of 8 to 10 years' confinement in a cask to round off their edges and show much depth of character, and many only show their civilized best after 12 to 15 years maturation. Twenty- or 25-year-old specimens can be marvelous, but only if the whiskey has the intensity to sustain such extended aging. Kept too long in cast, a malt whiskey will lose its attractive, bright freshness of flavor and take on a dried-out, over-woody character. Few malts are demonstrably better if aged longer than a quarter-century -- and are certainly no bargain. Many of these antiques typically have price tags that reflect their scarcity more than their quality, which is why they are often decked out with stag's head stopper, leather luggage boxes, and the like. (Hint: because grain whiskey gets only woddier, not better, after about 8 years of aging, it makes little sense to pay a premium for most blends over 12 years of age.)

Read the label. While each single malt producer strives to maintain the individual character of its product, most distilleries offer their malts in various forms that can refine the taste and up the price -- such as different age levels (8, 10, 12, 15, 18, etc.), different types of barrels, proof strengths, and the like. And some malt whiskies on the market aren't single malts at all -- they're vatted whiskies; all malt blends of two or more single malts. Good as they sometimes are, they lack one of the main appeals of single malts -- identifiable regional character.

Vintage dates don't mean much. Because variations from year to year are small, and the whiskey doesn't change once it's bottled, there's little difference between a distillery's 20-year-old bottling and another one from the same source that says "distilled in 1975, bottled in 1995" on the label.

Compare before buying a bottle. Many single malts fans are always on the lookout for whiskies they haven't tried yet, not just out of curiosity, but also to hone their preferences. As with fine wine, above a certain level of quality, what's best is largely a matter of taste. You may find the Lowland style too low-key and head for Highland malts; some may swoon over smoky Islay whiskies, while others might find them too much of a good thing. But who says you have to pick one brand and stick to it? Most malt enthusiasts are like wine lovers -- they like variety. The easiest, most enjoyable (and least expensive) way to sample a series of single malts is at the bar of a well-stocked restaurant or pub, where you can line up two or three for direct comparison. In fact, many bars with a good selection offer single malts in 3/4-ounce sample pours for just that purpose. P>

Serving Single Malts

Scots claim it's criminal to serve single malts over ice. They commune with their "wee drams" in short tumblers cut by about one-third with a good spring water to bring up the aroma. But then, there climate is hardly tropical, and their idea of room temperature requires wool jackets. In warmer zones, non-traditionalists may be forgiven the addition of a cube or two of frozen water to provide refreshing coolness as well as the requisite dilution.

Lighter single malts such and Lowland and younger, delicate Highland bottlings, (and for that matter, good blended whiskies), make the best aperitifs and pair well with spicy hors d'oeuvres, smoked salmon, and sushi. Richer, older Highland malts and Islay whiskies are ideal for savoring after dinner. As we've proved to ourselves on numerous occasions, many of the mellower malts are smooth enough to be enjoyed neat in a brandy snifter, where the warmth of a cradling hand will coax extras nuances to emerge. Mover over cognac.

- Click on the button to return to the first page of this article.

- Click on the button to return to the Table of Contents.