the biggest beast in the world. There are lots of variables that growers can't control -- the amount of rain, the temperature, whether there's a lot of sunshine or very little. They all effect the tobacco. The formula of the blend changes depending on the strength of the tobacco harvest."

One of the more difficult aspects of the cigar-making business, Galdieri says, is holding on to employees who know how to roll the cigars he wants made. Rollers at Las Vegas Cigar are paid for each cigar they make. Although Galdieri has set production goals, there are no quotas. To encourage his rollers to remain with the company, Galdieri has set up a 401(k)-type plan where he matches 50 cents on the dollar, up to $100 in earnings per week, if the roller puts the money into a savings account. "They've each signed a four-year contract," Galdieri says, "If they leave before the end of four years or if they want their money early, they get their money minus the money I've put in. If they stay four years, they get their money and they get my money."

Although Galdieri is continually being asked whether he can supply Cuban cigars to his customers, his answer always is a firm "no." Besides, he says, Cuban cigars aren't what they once were. "Before Castro, there's no doubt that Cuba made the best cigars. But the big growers, the guys who knew how to make the best cigars, were forced to leave the country. What you have now in Cuba are second-rate growers and second-rate rollers. The quality has definitely gone down."

"There are Cubans in the United States who are cleaning floors who are great cigar makers, but it's difficult to find them because it's such a small group of people. Being a world-class cigar maker is like the difference between a cook and a chef. They both prepare food, but a chef's product will be better."

To carry the analogy to Las Vegas Cigar Co. -- any competent roller can make a stogie. Here, they make cigars.

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